Freedom, or lack thereof

A while ago, one of Mike's Saudi co-workers told him a story of how he and his (also Saudi) wife were sitting together on a bench in the mall.  They were approached by the Mutawwas (religious police), because men and women are not permitted to be seen together in public.  It's ok if you are married or blood related, so when they said "We are married" the Mutawwas demanded proof.  Of course, they did not have a marriage certificate handy and their word was not enough.  So the Mutawwas took them aside to different rooms and interrogated them individually (presumably with questions like "when is your anniversary" and "what is your spouse's favorite food" and "how many kids do you have") until they were satisfied that they were, in fact, married.  Supposedly the whole think took a long time (hours), which is apparently less time than what it would take if they had resisted.  

Yikes.  But on some level, it's good to know that this happens to Saudis as well as westerners.  (This happens not infrequently to US citizens around here, too.) 

The reason why I'm posting this now is that I was on the US Consulate website for something else, and I stumbled across the "rules" for Saudi Arabia.  I pasted them below so all of you can read up on how to act over here!  The rules I pasted below are only for social; I intentionally did not post all the rules, mostly because, Mom, I didn't want to scare you with the 'women are not allowed to leave the country without their husband's permission' stuff.  (Of course Mike will always let me leave!!  He is not Saudi after all!)  

Anyway, check this out:  (and I hope it gives you renewed appreciation for our country, even in the midst of all this election garbage, that there is no freedom like our freedom, anywhere else in the world!) 

Standards of Conduct and Religious Police: Islam is the official religion of the country and pervades all aspects of life in Saudi Arabia. Public display of non-Islamic religious articles such as crosses and Bibles is not permitted. Non-Muslims are forbidden to travel to Makkah (Mecca) and Madinah, the cities where the two holiest mosques of Islam are located. Norms for public behavior in Saudi Arabia are extremely conservative, and the Commission on Promotion of Virtue and the Prevention of Vice (CPVPV), the religious police (Mutawwa or Al-Hay’ah colloquially), are charged with enforcing these standards on behalf of the CPVPV. Mutawwa are required to carry special identification and usually are accompanied by uniformed police; however, in some cases they have detained persons without police presence. To ensure that conservative standards of conduct are observed, the Saudi religious police have accosted or arrested foreigners, including U.S. citizens, for improper dress or other alleged infractions, such as consumption of alcohol or association by a female with a male to whom she is not related. Mutawwa who are accompanied by a uniformed police officer have the power to take you to police or Mutawwa headquarters. If a uniformed police officer is present, you must (if requested) hand over your iqama or identification to the police officer. While most incidents have resulted only in inconvenience or embarrassment, the potential exists for an individual to be arrested, physically harmed or deported. U.S. citizens who are involved in an incident with the Mutawwa should report the incident to the U.S. Embassy in Riyadh or the U.S. Consulates General in Jeddah or Dhahran.

In most areas of Saudi Arabia, and particularly in Riyadh and the central part of the Kingdom, women wear a full-length black covering known as an Abaya, and cover their heads. Women who choose not to conform to this dress code face a risk of confrontation by Mutawwa and possible detention/arrest. Men should not wear shorts in public or go without a shirt.

Many areas of life in Saudi Arabia are segregated by sex to ensure that unrelated men and women have no possibility of "mingling" (khulwa, a punishable crime). Some Mutawwa try to enforce the rule that men and women who are beyond childhood years may not mingle in public unless they are family or close relatives. Mutawwa may ask to see proof that a couple is married or related. Women who are arrested for socializing with a man who is not a relative may be charged with prostitution. Some restaurants, particularly fast-food outlets, have refused to serve women who are not accompanied by a close male relative. In addition, some restaurants or cafes don’t have a "family section" in which women are permitted to eat. These restrictions are not always posted. This is more common in Riyadh and the more conservative central Nejd region.

Dancing, playing music, and showing movies in public are forbidden.

ENTRY / EXIT REQUIREMENTS FOR U.S. CITIZENS: A passport valid for at least six months and a visa are required for entry. Visas are issued for business and work, to visit close relatives, and for transit and religious visits by Muslims.  All Saudi Embassies have the authority to issue the 5-year visas, but only the Saudi Embassy in Washington, D.C., and Consulates in the U.S. appear to be doing so with any consistency. There have been reports by U.S. citizens that they were refused a Saudi visa because their passports reflected travel to Israel or indicated that they were born in Israel. Women visitors and residents must be met by their sponsor upon arrival. Women who are traveling alone and are not met by sponsors have experienced delays before being allowed to enter the country or to continue on other flights.

A Saudi man who wishes to marry a foreign woman is required by law to seek the permission of Saudi authorities. Since February 20, 2008, a regulation exists requiring the Saudi man to sign a document giving irrevocable permission to his foreign wife and the children born of their union to travel in and out of the country without restrictions. However, it seems this document is rarely demanded by authorities and in any event it is not retroactive. Even with such documentation, the foreign spouse and their children may still have difficulty leaving Saudi Arabia freely. Also, if a couple consisting of a foreigner and a Saudi living in Saudi Arabia divorce, the foreign parent cannot under any circumstances leave the country with the children born of their union even if he or she is granted custody rights. 

CRIME: Crime in Saudi Arabia has steadily increased over recent years, but remains at levels below most major metropolitan areas in the United States. Visitors should take precautions to reduce their risk of becoming victims of crime.  It is advisable to travel with a companion, if possible. Private Saudi citizens who perceive that a foreigner is not observing conservative standards of conduct have been known to harass, pursue, or assault that person. The U.S. Embassy in Riyadh cautions U.S. citizens that Saudi Arabian police authorities have detained potential witnesses to crimes without charges or access to legal counsel, and with limited or delayed consular access, during the investigative stage of criminal cases, which can take months. On occasion, Saudi authorities have temporarily confiscated the personal effects of detained potential witnesses. Even when released from detention, witnesses to criminal incidents may be prohibited from leaving the country until investigation of the incident is complete.

CRIMINAL PENALTIES: While in Saudi Arabia, you are subject to its laws and regulations, which sometimes differ significantly from those in the United States and may not afford the protections available to the individual under U.S. law. Penalties for breaking the law can be more severe than in the United States for similar offenses. The Saudi Government requires diplomatic missions to request visits to incarcerated individuals via formal diplomatic channels, which often causes delays in providing consular access to those citizens.  

Persons violating Saudi Arabian laws, even unknowingly, may be expelled, arrested, imprisoned, or even executed. Suspects may be detained without charges or legal counsel, and with limited consular access, for months during the investigative stage of criminal cases Penalties for the import, manufacture, possession, and consumption of alcohol or illegal drugs in Saudi Arabia are severe. Convicted offenders can expect long jail sentences, heavy fines, public floggings, and/or deportation. The penalty for drug trafficking in Saudi Arabia is death. Saudi officials make no exceptions. Customs inspections at ports of entry are thorough. The U.S. Embassy and Consulates General have no standing in Saudi courts to obtain leniency for a U.S. citizen convicted of alcohol or drug offenses.

Saudi authorities do not permit criticism of Islam or the royal family. The government prohibits the public practice of religions other than Islam. Non-Muslims suspected of violating these restrictions have been jailed. Homosexual activity and adultery are considered to be criminal offenses and those convicted may be sentenced to lashing, prison, or death.

While some countries will automatically notify the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate if a U.S. citizen is detained or arrested in a foreign country, that might not always be the case. To ensure that the United States is aware of your circumstances, request that the police and prison officials notify the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate as soon as you are arrested or detained in Saudi Arabia. While staff at U.S. Embassy and Consulates General will make every effort to visit incarcerated U.S. citizens, they may experience delays in obtaining permission from the Saudi authorities for the visit.

Saudi customs authorities enforce strict regulations concerning importation into Saudi Arabia of such banned items as alcohol products, weapons, and any item that is held to be contrary to the tenets of Islam, such as pork products and pornography. Imported and domestic audiovisual media and reading matter are censored.
Saudi customs and postal officials broadly define what is contrary to Islam and therefore prohibited. Christmas decorations, fashion magazines, and "suggestive" videos may be confiscated and the owner subject to penalties and fines.

TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: While in Saudi Arabia, you may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning Saudi Arabia is provided for general reference only, and may not necessarily apply to all locations and circumstances. 

Temporary male visitors may drive on their U.S. driver's license. U.S. men employed in Saudi Arabia should obtain a local driver's license from the Department of Traffic Police. Women are not allowed to drive or ride bicycles on public roads.

Traffic accidents are a significant hazard in Saudi Arabia. Driving habits are generally poor, and accidents involving vehicles driven by minors are not uncommon. In the event of a traffic accident resulting in personal injury, all persons involved (if not seriously injured) may be taken to the local police station. Drivers are likely to be held for several days until responsibility is determined and any reparations paid. In many cases, all drivers involved in an accident are held in custody regardless of fault. U.S. citizens involved in an accident should immediately contact their sponsor and the U.S. Embassy or nearest U.S. Consulate.